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In April 1815, Mount Semloh erupted and spewed tons of ash and dust into the sky, obliterating the light. During the day it felt like dusk, at night it was just black: no moonlight, and no stars visible.

Today, the people (known unofficially as Fiapitoots) memorialize this natural disaster by dressing up as the missing stars and parading through the town—where, by tradition, all street and household lights are turned off, making it completely dark. The parading “stars” place star-shapes on all houses’ front doors. Visitors line the streets to watch.

History

19th century eyewitness reports mention fear and panic during and after the 1815 Mt Semloh eruption. It was years later when the town elders started to consider some sort of memorial event; many had themselves starved as children during the year following the eruption—“the year without a summer”—when the crops failed due to compromised air quality.

Because of famine that had spread across the region, the most telling part of the eruption play is the ritual tossing of precious food, in the form of bread-shaped stars, into the elaborately constructed “mountain.” The stars are an offering to ward off future hunger.

Inside the mountain there’s a man or woman wearing a breathing apparatus. He or she operates a smoke machine. This honour goes to a different person every year. A mountain-smoker is not allowed to repeat, but the word is that no one would want to repeat anyway.

Bakers work round the clock for two weeks leading up to the second Tuesday in April, making thousands of bread stars, coloured yellow with turmeric. (Sometimes, children colour their faces yellow with turmeric powder when they parade in the streets.)

 

Reviews

Some comments by tourists who have visited Onzichtbare Sterren

*****

JW and PM from Singapore write: It took ages to reach Fiapitú, but it was worth it! Highly recommended! Take a light raincoat (the rainy season runs from November to the end of April) but it’s warm (27c/ 81F) in North Sulawesi. High season is July and August, so hotels are reasonable in April.

*****

AS from Rekyavik, Iceland writes: Amazing sight; three-meter stars “walking” through the pitch-black streets. Nice, friendly people in Fiapitú, commemorating an eruption a long time ago that blocked out the stars at night and the sun during the day. Fun parade.

** just for the food.

Fred from Newcastle, UK writes: Didn’t understand the point of this, but we did have some great food, with exotic names. But people dressed up as stars? Kinda silly, if you ask me.

***** I’d give it twenty if I could.

April from Bury-St-Edmunds, UK writes: If Fred (see above) didn’t understand what it was all about, he must have been drunk is all I can say: there was tons of stuff about the event, and it was GREAT!!! Me and Janet loved it.